Overclocking / Temps

NotAnalGrap

NotAnalGrap

Assistant to the Regional Leadership Manager
Admin
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
5,996
Hope you all don't mind, but I wanted to pick your brain. Getting my system all re-setup after switching to the MSI Gaming 5 motherboard (due to continuing second PCI slot issues with Asus boards).

So I've reseated my Cooler/paste a few times but I was ending up with some really low idle temps, but super high prime95 temps. I've gone ahead and disabled turbo boost for now, set the multiplier to 35x, and set my core voltage to 1.01, set ram to XMP profile (2133) and left everything else on auto.

- If anyone has advice on other settings to set manually instead of being on auto please let me know. I am here for your great wisdom.

Case sides are open/off FYI.

Here are my current small FFT temps and cpu info:
upload_2015-12-24_12-28-8.png


At idle:

upload_2015-12-24_12-32-56.png



So locking/limiting the vcore and removing turbo boost (obviously I lose speed) has helped a lot.

One thing I notice is that the 4th core in both pictures is quite a bit lower. Makes me think my seating of the cooler/paste is still bad. I've tried about 5 times now and am getting frustrated. Tried spreading method and this last time I did the rice size method and let it squish itself out.

Next steps:
- Trying to decide if I check the paste and see if maybe there is is either one area with less paste than the others (the cooler core) or other areas that have far less than 1 spot.
- Start increasing the multiplier until I crash at 1.01 volts, slowly increase voltage, and see if I can keep roughly the same temps without much more voltage on a 4.0GHz clock. I'm not looking for a super high clock, but would like to have a stable/reasonable 4.0 GHz overclock.

Here are rough numbers on my other temps at idle if interested:

upload_2015-12-24_12-37-1.png
 
Have you consider delid the cpu ?
It seems like lid paste issue more than anything else.
 
rottenbull said:
Have you consider delid the cpu ?
It seems like lid paste issue more than anything else.
Click to expand...

Only thought is that while that could help, I didn't have these issues on my previous motherboard before I switched boards around a few times.
 
One thing I notice is that the 4th core in both pictures is quite a bit lower. Makes me think my seating of the cooler/paste is still bad. I've tried about 5 times now and am getting frustrated. Tried spreading method and this last time I did the rice size method and let it squish itself out.
Click to expand...

First, what cooler are you using.
Second, you're correct that the big differences indicate the paste isn't spread evenly. I usually just do a pea sized drop and press the contact points together and rotate then go back to normal and lock it down.

IDK what your ambient temps are, but that wouldn't be out of the ordinary for here in Houston where it's hot and humid.
 
Yeah it's in my basement so cooler ambient Temps. Using the corsair h100i

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 
Well shit, if the ambient temps are low then the either the paste is too heavy or not distributed well, or it could be old paste that's degraded. That's about all I can think of unless there's a bios setting affecting stuff.

My Asus Hero has a bios setting like that which makes the cpu run at boosted speeds all the time. I disabled that because of the heat here in TX. Is there something like that in your bios maybe?
 
Can you give a picture of system temps under load -- you showed the whole system at idle. If not a paste issue it could also be a fan/air flow issue on the radiator
 
ChuckTheHammer said:
Can you give a picture of system temps under load -- you showed the whole system at idle. If not a paste issue it could also be a fan/air flow issue on the radiator
Click to expand...
Good point; it works best (I've found) to have the fans doing intake from the outside so the fans should be blowing cool air from the the top of the case down through the radiator. Having the side panels off will actually hurt the temps with the fans mounted this way.
 
So after extensive testing, playing with tightness (of the cooler, not @Soulzz) and even swapping out CPUs I've determined that the cooler surface itself or the bracket must be warped. Always the same 4th core is the coolest, etc. I've ordered a replacement for testing, and then I'll RMA this one if needed. Wish I had the time to invest in doing a custom water cooling build. Maybe I should just ship my system off to @sixer9682 and have him do it for me. ;)
 
It's easy to do seriously, it's just an initial investment and you can reuse everything but the water blocks for the cpu and gpu when you upgrade.
I hope the replacement solves the problem for you.
 
JWR046 said:
Remember it takes a little while for some paste to be optimal. Also check the CPU fan speed. I assume that runs your pump. It may not be running at 100%.
Click to expand...

Yeah I don't think the Arctic Silver 5 is supposed to have any curing time. I did check the pump, and it is running at 100%.
 
You can 'lap' the cooler surface. Plus XMP profiles can cause the CPU to run at higher temps.
 
I would say look through settings in Bios, Alot of these newer mobo's have setting geared for overclocking. I only use asus, and they have a few settings for throwing extra voltage @ cpu when at full load to prevent from crashing (when oc'd), and while it does help in that case. It will also raise your temps with the higher power lvl. With the difference of 10C between the cores, not sure about that... possibly an anomaly? When this cpu came out they were known for running hot and the whole "delid" phase blew up.
 
DocHolliday said:
So after extensive testing, playing with tightness (of the cooler, not @Soulzz) and even swapping out CPUs I've determined that the cooler surface itself or the bracket must be warped. Always the same 4th core is the coolest, etc. I've ordered a replacement for testing, and then I'll RMA this one if needed. Wish I had the time to invest in doing a custom water cooling build. Maybe I should just ship my system off to @sixer9682 and have him do it for me. ;)
Click to expand...

I guess you can turn your cooler plate by 90 degrees all around, to see is it really the cooler. Also, you can turn the backplate mount as well.
I have a feeling, you going to get the same results, regardless the cooler's position.
 
I think what you're finding now is the ceiling of the closed water system's cooling. It's one of the big reasons I moved to a custom loop, especially with overclocked cpus. It might get better with a new unit but it might not depending on the contact points.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top